Appalachian Chimichurri

The Argentinean herb sauce known as chimichurri is traditionally made with parsley and lemon juice, but it’s infinitely adaptable by swapping in other acids and green herbs, such as ramps, which are popping up in the woods this time of year. We usually serve this sauce with grilled steak, but it’s also wonderful spooned over grilled chicken, lamb, fish or roasted vegetables. Finely chop 1 small bunch ramps and 1 shallot. Combine the ramps, shallots, 1/3 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar, ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes and ½ teaspoon kosher salt in a bowl. Stir everything together and taste; adjust the seasonings as needed. The chimichurri can be made up to 2 hours ahead. —Makes about 1 cup

Winter Caprese Salad

The colors may be all snowy whites and evergreens, but we would happily dig into this salad any day of the year. Thinly slice 1 small sweet onion and toss with 1 teaspoon champagne or white wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Tear 8 ounces fresh mozzarella into bite-sized pieces. Gently toss the mozzarella with the onion mixture then transfer to a platter. Pit 1/3 cup green olives, such as Castelvetrano or Picholine, and tear into pieces, scattering them over the cheese as you work. Top with a handful of fresh parsley and 2 tablespoons chopped toasted hazelnuts. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and serve with crusty bread. —Serves 4

From Onions Etcetera (Burgess Lea Press, 2017).